Text: Ruth. Ruth Clegg
Speaking of collagen – how do you take it?
At some parties, people even drink collagen, and this anti-aging supplement is often paired with a strong cup of tequila – the latter may not be recommended in the pursuit of young, tender skin.
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, forming the “skeleton” that supports the structural integrity of the skin and musculoskeletal system.
In short, collagen helps to keep our skin full, joints and bones strong, and healthy hair and nails.
It has become so precious that some dermatologists recommend “storing” collagen – that is, investing in the supply of collagen early so that we have extra reserves when inevitable happens.
That’s right, that inevitable thing – aging. well.
Our collagen supply will naturally begin to decrease, starting on average from the middle and late 20s, down about 1% per year.
The rate of decline depends on factors such as our sun exposure, eating habits, and stress levels.
But is there credible scientific evidence that supplements can replenish collagen we are losing? If so, what is the most effective way to take it?
Kimberlie Smith started taking collagen about six months ago. The 33-year-old woman started using it after a “traumatic year” in 2024. Her son had a premature birth, and during that stressful period, her mother of three said her skin was “severely affected.”
She drinks a tropical fruit-flavored gel every day that contains marine collagen – a collagen extracted from fish.
“My skin does look brighter and clearer, and my hair has never looked so good since I started taking collagen. As a sleep-deficient mom, it really makes a difference.”
Emma Wedgeworth, a dermatologist at Harley Street, London, said she remained with her reservations while some studies have shown oral collagen may work.
She notes that collagen can travel through our bodies smoothly—it’s not an easy task—and reach precisely where we need it, the idea that this may be just a beautiful fantasy.
First, it must pass through the intestine without being completely broken down. Because collagen molecules are large, many companies have now begun to break them down into smaller fragments—collagen peptides, also known as hydrolyzed collagen.
Even if this smaller form of collagen is more likely to pass through the intestinal wall and into the blood, it still has a long journey to go.
It must reach the skin to work, but it can also be utilized by other organs of the body. After all, collagen is a valuable resource.
“There is not much reliable evidence for this at present, but there is a theory that because the skin is the organ with the “fastest renewal of cells”, it may be easier to use these collagen peptides than other organs.”
And this may also be the reason for the increased production of collagen in skin cells.
“You dare not stop”
It all sounds very complicated – and uncertain. This may make you wonder: What about using collagen cream? They are applied directly to the skin, aren’t they more likely to get to where they should go?
“No,” Ms. Wedgeworth replied simply.
“Collagen stays on the outermost layer of the skin and cannot reach the dermis-the middle layer.”
There are three main types of collagen supplements: marine type (from fish), cattle source type (from cattle) and vegan type.
Among these three, if it is oral collagen, the dermatologist recommends choosing the marine type.
This is because marine collagen contains a lot of first type collagen—the most common of the five collagens—which not only provides structure for skin cells, but also plays a key role in the health of bones, tendons and connective tissue.
Ms. Wedgeworth said vegan collagen is the worst-effect. Collagen is an animal-derived protein, so these vegan products do not actually contain collagen, but contain a range of amino acids and vitamins.
“I’m trapped,” Ali Watson said to me, pointing to several packets of cow-source collagen powder in the kitchen.
“Yes, this bag is for me, and this bag is for Tommy.”
I looked at the slender brown hound beside me, with some gray beard appearing around its nose. It raised its eyebrows, as if it was expressing approval.
Ali, a neuroanaesthesiologist, admitted that she “knows a lot about the dose”, but she felt that once she started taking collagen, she couldn’t stop – she couldn’t stop taking her dog.
“I started taking collagen powder a few years ago. It wasn’t for the appearance at first, but for the protection of my joints because I often do weight training.”
Ali wasn’t sure if her joints had really improved, but she felt the changes in other aspects.
“My skin feels shimmery, my hair becomes thicker, and my nails are stronger.”
I looked down at Tommy, who seemed to be more interested in the food in the dog bowl than collagen powder.
“I know, it sounds crazy,” Ali said. “But before summer, Tommy looked a little slow and not energetic, so I wanted to try collagen for dogs.”
“I want to see if it can help its joints – it’s older now. It’s in better shape, but it may also be just because the weather gets colder, and it’s no longer so hot and lazy.”
Ali is still skeptical about whether the supplement is really effective, and she spends £60 a month (about NT$2,460) to ensure she and Tommy can take collagen every day.
Photo Credit: BBC News
But she said she couldn’t stop now.
“That’s the problem with supplements,” the 46-year-old woman said.
“There are always ups and downs in life. You may start taking it at a low point and then your situation improves – but that may have nothing to do with supplements. But at that stage, you dare not stop.”
One problem facing consumers and clinicians is that supplement research is full of conflicting information and conflicts of interest, said Faisal Ali, a dermatology consultant at Mid Cheshire NHS Trust.
A relatively small recent study comparing studies funded by the health industry with those without conflicts of interest.
The results show that industry-funded research believes that collagen supplements can significantly improve the skin’s moisturizing, elasticity and wrinkles; while studies without pharmaceutical companies have shown no impact on the skin.
Professor Alibaba said that the research on industry funding is not “bad in essence”, but the overall results are very diverse. He also pointed out that there is currently a lack of strong evidence to prove that oral or topical collagen has substantial effects.
So I asked him, if I could reverse the time and start drinking collagen and storing collagen in my 20s, would my skin be smoother and younger now?
“Probably not,” he said.
Collagen doesn’t stay in the body for that long—we don’t have a collagen storage cabinet that we can use at any time.
Photo Credit: Getty Images / BBC News
However, Professor Ali believes that we may be able to use some special technologies to promote collagen production and maintain skin elasticity, such as laser collagen stimulation and microneedle therapy.
These methods use many extremely fine professional needles or lasers to create tiny wounds on the skin, thereby starting the repair process and thus promoting the production of new collagen.
But it’s not cheap. A course of treatment may be as high as £300 (about NT$12,300). So are there any more cost-effective alternatives?
“The best thing for the skin,” said Professor Ali, “is to use high-quality sunscreen. We know that sunlight has a great impact on skin aging.”
“Eat sun protection, eat a healthy diet, and quit if you smoke. These measures have a much greater impact on the skin than collagen supplements.”
This article is reproduced with the authorization of “BBC News Chinese”, and the original text is published here
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