Thanks to the recent treatment trend of wanting to be naturally pretty, the popularity of collagen injections is not expected to cool down for the time being. The ‘induced type’, which helps collagen production, and the ‘direct injection type’, which fills in insufficient collagen, are both leading the market.
The algorithm reveals my tastes and keywords of interest with eerie clarity. Sometimes it feels like it knows me better than I know myself, to the point where it’s scary. If I look at my interests through recommended YouTube videos these days, they are ingrown toenail management that causes pirgasm, quick vlogs, reviews, and the inevitable treatment reviews. Not long ago, whenever I scrolled down, I saw a series of videos of similar procedures, and that was ‘collagen injection.’ When the video first appeared, I thought it was just an introduction to a skin booster that helps collagen production. For the editor, who is a treatment enthusiast, collagen-generating injections such as Juveluc are already familiar procedures. But is this an injection that directly ‘injects’ collagen into the dermis of the skin? This was an algorithmic temptation that I simply could not ignore.
Fill your skin with collagen
In the world of YouTube, which is nothing short of a battleground for views, the secret to surviving on the battlefield is to dominate the hottest or latest information. Then, it is clear that ‘direct injection type collagen injection (hereinafter referred to as collagen injection)’ is the keyword that is attracting the most attention these days. Several related videos have surfaced in the past few days. So, the first thing I asked my dermatologist was this question. “Is this a new procedure?”
The answer was unexpected. Collagen injections have already been used as fillers since the 1990s. However, it was almost pulled out of the market due to frequent allergy cases, and what took its place was hyaluronic acid filler. “At the time, bovine collagen was used, but the structural difference from human collagen was quite large, and the manufacturing technology for atelocollagen (injectable collagen with the parts that cause allergic reactions removed) was not popularized.” Nak-kyung Noh, a specialist at Leaders Dermatology Clinic, explains that the safety has improved due to advances in separation and purification technology, and it is receiving attention again recently. The popularity of collagen boosters also ignited the fire. “Now, the ‘induction type’, which stimulates the skin to produce collagen on its own, and the ‘direct injection type’, which replenishes insufficient collagen, coexist.” Hyuncheol Shim, a dermatologist at The Cell Dermatology Clinic, adds:
So what ingredients are injected in current collagen injections? Many of the injections currently used in Korea are made of porcine collagen and are processed into atelocollagen. Representative examples include Retigen and Collage. Nak-kyung Noh introduces, “Retigen has very small collagen particles, so it is effective in improving skin texture, tone, and pores. In the case of collage, thick collagen bundles are used, so volume and elasticity can be expected. Also, Retigen is administered as the injection provided, but collage is diluted with physiological saline and injected.”
As for ‘Elavier Lituo’, which has been rising the hottest recently, opinions on it are divided. It is often introduced as a collagen injection, but strictly speaking, the texture is different. It is a powdered form of human dermis (with cells removed) and contains various dermal components such as elastin and hyaluronic acid in addition to collagen. Since the collagen content reaches about 89%, it is classified as a ‘collagen injection’, but many believe that it is closer to the skin booster series. This is why it is compared to Retigen, which is a direct collagen injection, or introduced along with skin boosters such as Rejuran or Juvelook. “There are also differences in terms of laws. Collagen injections are approved as medical devices, while products using allogeneic dermal tissue are registered as ‘human tissue transplant materials.’” Nak-kyung Noh is of the opinion that it is not appropriate to directly compare collagen to other categories.
Whatever it is, Elavie Lituo is at the center of the topic to the extent that related stocks hit record highs. This is because it has a lower risk of causing allergies compared to animal collagen, so you can lessen concerns about side effects. Actual treatment reviews are also positive as it is effective in treating pores and wounds, which are difficult to improve as the skin environment is rebuilt overall. But there is also controversy. Ethical criticism follows from the fact that donated human tissue is used for cosmetic purposes.
Collagen injections are characterized by rapid effectiveness as the missing ingredient is directly injected. Skin density is improved, elasticity is restored, and volume is naturally added. It also plays a role in promoting collagen regeneration, so more fundamental and long-term results can be expected. It is sometimes compared to filler (in particular, Elavier Lituo is sometimes mistakenly introduced as a filler), but it is completely different. Hyuncheol Shim makes the following analogy: “Assuming that the sand in the sandbag is fat and the cloth bag is skin, filling it with sand is filler, and collagen injection is what makes the cloth itself thick and strong.” Another advantage is that there are no side effects such as nodules that sometimes appear during collagen booster treatments such as Juveluc, Sculptra, and Radius. However, in rare cases, allergic reactions such as redness and itching may occur, so it is best to consult with a specialist. Organa Cell dermatologist, Organa, advises, “It is not recommended if you have severe or inflammatory acne, keloid constitution, autoimmune disease, or animal protein allergy.” The recommended treatment cycle varies depending on the expert, but it is usually recommended to receive 2 to 3 treatments at intervals of one or two months, followed by reinforcement once or twice a year.
Whether direct injection or guided, collagen treatment is currently an important axis in the beauty industry. Hybrid formulations that combine collagen with antioxidants and growth factors are increasing, and protocols that vary products and methods depending on the individual are becoming more sophisticated.
“Injectable collagen certainly has many advantages, but it needs to solve the problem of a small number of allergic reactions. To overcome this, human-derived collagen is needed, and ethical issues and regulations are challenges that must be overcome. For the time being, hyaluronic acid-based procedures, synthetic polymer skin boosters, DNA injections such as Rejuran, and injections of ingredients derived from collagen and allogeneic dermis are expected to continue competing. What is interesting is that most of these technological advances are being led by Korean bio companies. The trend of K-beauty and K-aesthetic medicine will continue for the time being. “It will not break.” These are the words of Noh Nak-kyung.
