Europe’s Textile Consumption: A Growing Concern

A recent study reveals that the average European citizen purchases approximately 19 kilograms of textiles annually. This unprecedented figure highlights a critical issue: despite growing awareness of environmental concerns, our consumption habits are escalating.This surge is fueled not only by ingrained lifestyle patterns but also by what some experts call “reassurance levers,” such as eco-labels and the booming second-hand market, which can create a false sense of responsible consumption.

The “Reassurance Lever” paradox: Buying More by Feeling Good

Anthropologist Fanny Parise argues that these “reassurance levers” paradoxically contribute to increased consumption. By providing a sense of ethical justification, they encourage further purchases. This phenomenon creates a “cognitive dissonance,” where individuals believe they are acting ecologically without fundamentally altering their behavior.

Reassurance levers like labels or the second hand allow us to justify our purchases and give us good conscience, but that pushes us to consume even more.

Fanny Parise, anthropologist specializing in consumption

This psychological effect is amplified in times of uncertainty. As Parise explains, focusing on familiar purchasing practices can provide a sense of stability and comfort, leading to increased spending on clothing as a form of reassurance.

Second-Hand Fashion: A Sustainable Solution or a Consumption Catalyst?

The rising popularity of second-hand clothing is frequently enough touted as a sustainable option. Though, Parise contends that it may inadvertently contribute to overall consumption. By making clothing more accessible and affordable, the second-hand market can create a “rebound effect,” where consumers buy more items, even if they are pre-owned.

Consider the global second-hand market, projected to reach $350 billion by 2027. While it promotes circularity, its accessibility can lead to increased overall textile consumption.

Beyond Individual Choices: The Need for Systemic Change

Parise emphasizes that simply urging individuals to buy less is insufficient.She argues that a fundamental shift in the value we place on textiles is necessary. This requires addressing the social and symbolic codes surrounding fashion, which often drive consumption patterns.

It is indeed necessary to rethink the place and the value we give to textiles in our lives.

Fanny Parise, anthropologist specializing in consumption

Furthermore, the concept of “buying less, but better” is often limited to those with higher disposable incomes, highlighting the need for more equitable and accessible sustainable options.

Fast Fashion and “Moral Credit”: Fueling the Consumption cycle

Fast fashion remains a important driver of excessive consumption. The industry frequently enough employs a strategy of “moral credit,” where the purchase of ethically sourced items is used to justify less environmentally friendly behaviors. This creates a false sense of balance, allowing consumers to rationalize their overall consumption habits.

This phenomenon is further exacerbated by the increasing pressure on consumers’ budgets. As Parise notes, economic anxieties can lead to a greater emphasis on price, further fueling the demand for cheap, fast-fashion items.

A Call for Systemic Questioning

Ultimately, addressing the issue of overconsumption requires a “systemic questioning” of the role of fashion and textiles in our lives. Change cannot solely rely on individual actions. It demands a fundamental re-evaluation of the industry’s practices,consumer culture,and the value we assign to clothing.The key lies not only in what we choose to buy but also, and perhaps more importantly, in what we choose not to buy.