101. 안동 정상 귀래정 은행나무 노거수
Guiraejeong and ginkgo trees.
While following an old giant tree, I learned that there is a family that plants a tree and makes it a family motto or lives by it as a motto. I have a new idea that the life and symbolism of trees are like teachers who teach us and textbooks in the humanities. That’s what I think of when I see the trees living in Seowon and Hyanggyo, as well as each family’s head house, ancestral rite, and pavilion. Andong is the home of Confucian culture and scholar culture, the home of Korean studies, and the capital of spiritual culture. Wherever you walk in Andong, you can get a glimpse of the noble cultural life of ancient scholars and the strong family love wherever you look.
An old ginkgo tree lives in Gwiraejeong (歸來亭), located at 770 Jeongsangbeong, Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The philosophy of life is evident in the word ‘Gwiraejeong’, the ginkgo tree reminds us of Confucius’ benevolence, wisdom and wisdom, and the wisdom of life shines in the word ‘old giant tree’. ‘Gwiraejeong Old Ginkgo Tree’ begins with the life of a Joseon scholar named Nakpo Lee Gyeong (李宏, 1441-1516). Gwiraejeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material No. 17, is a pavilion built by Lee Gyeong, a civil servant in the mid-Joseon Dynasty, after he returned to his hometown after resigning from his official position.
‘Gwiraejeong’ built in Andong by Lee Gyeong during the mid-Joseon Dynasty.
Designated as ‘Gyeongbuk Cultural Heritage No. 17’ as a training and rest area for younger students
‘Ginkgo tree’ established in Gwiraejeong for 500 years
Designated as a protected tree in 1982, height 18m, circumference 6m
Symbol of Confucian culture, scholar spirit, and family spirit
The name Gwiraejeong is taken from the Chinese poet Tao Yeongbuk’s Guiraecheosa (歸來處士). He passed the civil service examination in 1480 and served in various government positions before being exiled. In 1513, he resigned from his official position and spent the rest of his life building a pavilion in his hometown and teaching younger students. Originally, it was located close to the riverside, allowing a panoramic view of the Nakdong River, but it was moved to this location due to the construction of a road.
He was the second son of Lee Jeung (李增), a family member of the Goseong clan who came to Andong, and planted a ginkgo tree in Gwiraejeong and taught younger generations. This ginkgo tree symbolizes Lee Hong and has served as a family motto for half a century. The Joseon Dynasty’s family went beyond the walls of a single house and was the pillar of the country and the root of society. In that fence, connected by blood and blood, etiquette, duty, loyalty and filial piety grew, and the breath of ancestors and the will of descendants were connected in one line. The ginkgo tree did not lose its green spirit over time, and its spirit was passed down to descendants and became a pillar of the country. His descendant, Lee Sang-yong of Imcheonggak, was the first minister of the provisional government in Shanghai and devoted himself to the country’s independence, and his family produced numerous independence activists.
A ginkgo tree on a summer day.
The spirit formed by the roots of a single ginkgo tree became a symbol of trust and loyalty connecting generations, and in this way, the Joseon family established a person’s morals, corrected the order of a village, and wrote the history of a country. Family is a vein of spirit deeper than blood, and that spirit is the foundation of the culture that has made us what we are today.
In addition, the sad love story of the family of his great-grandson, Lee Eung-tae (李應台 1556-1586), touched the hearts of the entire nation and even served as a motif for film production. The main character is a heartbreaking letter from his wife (Won’s mother).
In 1998, during the development of housing land in Jeongha-dong, Andong-si, it was discovered that she wrote a letter expressing her longing for her husband, who died at the young age of 30, and placed it in a coffin in the grave. She did everything she could to nurse her husband’s illness. However, when her husband eventually passed away, leaving behind a young son and a wealthy son, she wrote a letter expressing her sorrow and longing. The earnest and heartbreaking content of the letter made me feel how strong my family’s love was.
When 500 years passed and the letter saw the light of day again, the purest love and longing that a human being possesses remained intact within it. That’s what family is. It is not a bond made by blood, but a bridge of time connecting the heart, and a trace of warmth that does not disappear even after leaving. The affection that permeates a single word, a single touch, and a bowl of rice is the language of family love that is passed down over time, and is the place where humans become most human. Here in Guiraejeong, you can get a glimpse of the family of Lee Gyeong, who grew up playing under the ginkgo tree and looking at the tree.
The reason I visited Gwiraejeong’s ginkgo tree and Won’s mother’s park was during the Korean Forest Literature Fall Literary Tour (In the Footsteps of Iyuksa Temple in Andong, Cheongsong Gaekju Literary Museum), and I took the time with Chairman Kim Seon-gil and Professor Kim Seon-wan (member) to tour the Gwiraejeong ginkgo tree and Won’s mother’s statue. Through the ginkgo tree, we learned more deeply about Won’s mother’s love for family and the history of the Goseong family’s independence movement. I also realized through the ginkgo tree that family and clan are important. We have known that trees have had a great influence on our lives in one way or another since ancient times. The Forest Literature Society is a literary organization that pursues health and happiness in our lives through literature using trees, forests, life, and the environment as motifs until the day literature becomes a forest and the forest becomes literature.
The old ginkgo tree in Gwiraejeong was designated as a protected tree on October 26, 1982. It is a giant with an age of 500 years, a height of 18m, a chest circumference of 6m, and a seat width of 16m. The tree that was originally inside the fence of Gwiraejeong is now outside the fence. The ginkgo tree, which symbolizes the Nakpo Haengdan (杏壇), has continued the spirit of scholars for over 500 years. If there were no ginkgo trees in Guiraejeong, it would just be remembered as an old pavilion. Taekliji also said that it was the most beautiful pavilion in Andong along with Hahoe’s Okyeonjeong, Imcheonggak, and Gunjajeong. In addition, it is introduced as the second scenic spot among the eight scenic views of Andong, Gwiraejoun (歸來朝雲), or the morning cloud of Gwiraejeong. The yellow leaves of the ginkgo tree that embraces Guiraejeong sparkle in the autumn sunlight.
A tombstone with Won engraving a letter from his mother.
Won’s mother’s letter…
Won’s wife told his father on the first day of June 1586, the year of Byeongsul.
You always said to me, ‘Let’s live until our hair turns gray and then die together.’ So why do you go ahead and leave me behind? Whom should I and the child listen to and how should I live? Are you leaving everything and going first? How did you bring my heart to me and how did I bring my heart to you? Whenever we lay down together, I used to talk to you. ‘Honey, do other people treat and love each other as well as we do?’ ‘Are other people really like us?’ How can you abandon me and go first without even thinking about such things? No matter what I do, I can’t live without you. I want to come to you quickly. Please take me with you. I can never forget my feelings for you in this life, and there is no end to my sorrow.
I wonder where I can put my heart and live with my children missing you. Please read the letter soon and come to my dream and tell me in detail. I am writing this because I want to hear you in detail in my dreams. Take a closer look and tell me. When you give birth to a child in my womb, you say that you will have something to see and talk about. Then, when you give birth to a child in your womb, you are telling me who your father is. No matter how much I try, will it still be like mine? Is there anything more sad like this under heaven? Even though you are just there, your heart will be as sad as mine.
There is no limit and no end, so I can’t write everything, I can only write roughly. Please read this letter carefully and come to my dreams and show me in detail about yourself and tell me again. I believe I can see you in my dreams. Come secretly and show me. There is no end to what I want to say, so I will end this here.
This letter, measuring 58.5 cm wide and 34.0 cm tall, was written in the archaic Korean script on Korean paper and is housed in the Andong University Museum along with other excavated relics, including his brother’s Mansi mituri and clothing. The tomb was moved to Eodam-ri, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si.
/Text/Photo = Author Jangjae Jang
