Jaeger-LeCoultre, MB&F, and Armin Strom have unveiled several high-complication and gem-set timepieces this week, including the Art Deco-inspired "Or Deco Cocktail" Reversos and the rare LM Perpetual "Chromatic" editions. These releases highlight an industry-wide emphasis on extreme hand-finishing, ranging from baguette-cut stones to intricate blue lacquer.
Red Carpet Origins of the Or Deco Cocktail
The recent launch of the Jaeger-LeCoultre "Or Deco Cocktail" series follows a wave of celebrity watch-spotting on social media. According to SJX Watches, the models were first glimpsed on the wrists of actors during the 2026 Met Gala before their official announcement.
These new editions expand upon the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds released last year. The collection features three gem-set models and one monochromatic version, with each being limited to 30 pieces. The designs replace the traditional horizontal Art Deco grooves with vertical bands of baguette-cut stones.
- **Pink gold** models paired with rubies.
- **White gold** models paired with either emeralds or blue sapphires.
While the stones add a flamboyant touch, the Reverso design provides a practical safeguard. Because the stones are set only on the front, the watch can be flipped over to reveal a solid case back, protecting the gems during casual wear.
Technical Precision in the Or Deco Series
The technical specifications of these cocktail pieces emphasize their role as high-jewelry timepieces. As Hodinkee reported, the cases measure 45.6 x 27.4 x 7.56mm and house a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822 movement, which provides a 42-hour power reserve.
| Gemstone Type | Case Material | Stone Count | Approximate Carat Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Emeralds | White Gold | 46 | 0.95 ct |
| Blue Sapphires | White Gold | 46 | 1.36 ct |
| Rubies | Pink Gold | 46 | Same as sapphires |
The use of emeralds presents a unique consideration for collectors. Because emeralds are more susceptible to scratches than rubies or sapphires, the ability to hide the stones by flipping the case is a functional necessity.
The Architectural Complexity of the Pegasus
Beyond the gem-set Reversos, Jaeger-LeCoultre is pushing the boundaries of decorative art with the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Pegasus. This piece utilizes 18K pink gold plates featuring a cloud motif created through more than 50 hand-formed hollows.
Worldtempus notes that the decoration involves applying multiple layers of blue lacquer until the surface is perfectly flush with the gold outlines. This level of detail extends to the movement itself, where open-worked, hand-lacquered bridges offer a view of the internal mechanics.
The craftsmanship required for this model is immense. The signature shape of a single bridge requires eight hours of hand-application, while the Gyrotourbillon cage alone demands approximately 14 hours of hand-bevelling work.
High-Stakes Horology from MB&F and Armin Strom
The independent sector is also releasing highly exclusive pieces that prioritize mechanical synchronization and rare materials. Time and Tide reports that MB&F has introduced the LM Perpetual "Chromatic" editions, which represent some of the rarest LM pieces to date.
Each of these eight editions features 48 baguette-cut gemstones handset by STG Creation in Geneva. The white gold versions utilize sapphires from Madagascar and Sri Lanka, while the 18k rose gold editions feature rubies from Mozambique. These pieces are priced at CHF 228,000.
Armin Strom has similarly expanded its Resonance range with a Dual Time GMT Aventurine model. Measuring 39mm, the watch uses a patented resonance clutch to synchronize two movements. The dark aventurine sub-dials provide a sharp contrast against the rose gold-colored main plate, and the piece is priced at CHF 105,000.
Practicality Meets Artistry in Serica and Awake
For collectors seeking more accessible options, the recent releases from Serica and Awake offer a different approach to specialized dials.
Serica has downsized its field watch to a 35mm diameter with the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer. Despite the smaller footprint, the watch maintains its tool-watch utility, featuring a COSC Swiss Soprod M100 automatic calibre and water resistance up to 200 metres. These models are available starting from €1,090.
Meanwhile, Awake has unveiled its latest Sơn Mài collection, which focuses on the intersection of traditional lacquer work and complex guilloché dial patterns.
This week’s releases signal a widening gap in the market. On one end, brands are leaning into the "celebrity effect," creating flamboyant, gem-set pieces designed for visibility. On the other, there is a renewed focus on the extreme, labor-intensive hand-finishing that defines high-end mechanical art.
