Vanishing Ice, Fading Faith: The Story of Lake Suwa’s miwatari

For over six centuries, the people dwelling near Lake Suwa in the Japanese mountains have observed a unique winter phenomenon: the Miwatari, or sacred crossing. These are ridges of ice that form on the frozen lake, traditionally believed to be the path of a roaming god. However, recent years have brought a disturbing change, with the Miwatari failing to appear with increasing frequency, signaling a potential crisis in the delicate balance of nature.

A Centuries-Old Tradition Under Threat

The appearance of the Miwatari has historically been a source of both awe and reassurance for the local population. The ridges,forming after periods of intense cold,were seen as a divine visitation,prompting ceremonies of respect and gratitude. Detailed records of the Miwatari’s appearance, meticulously maintained as 1443, offer a unique chronicle of past winters. These archives, however, now tell a concerning tale.

In recent decades, the absence of the Miwatari has become increasingly common. in fact, Lake Suwa has been experiencing what locals call an Open Sea state, failing to completely freeze over for 18 out of the last 25 years. This unprecedented trend has sparked fears about the impact of climate change on this ancient tradition and the environment.

The Voice of Tradition: A Priest’s Perspective

Kiyoshi Miyasaka, the chief priest of Yatsurugi Temple, whose family has overseen the Miwatari records for centuries, laments the changing patterns. He notes that the phenomenon has become increasingly erratic as the 1980s, attributing the shift to global climate change. Miyasaka, along with other community members, gathers each winter morning, hoping to witness the divine crossing, but often finding only disappointment.

In ancient times, an open ocean was considered a bad sign. we heard about the disbursement of the Himalayan ice and glacier,but our own lake also tried to give us a warning.

Kiyoshi Miyasaka, Imam Agung Yatsurugi Temple

The memories of older residents paint a stark contrast to the present reality. Isao Nakazawa, 81, recalls the impressive size and sound of the Miwatari in his youth, a far cry from the diminished formations of recent years. the last significant appearance was in 2018, with ice ridges only a few inches high.

Science and Spirituality: Understanding the phenomenon

While tradition ascribes the Miwatari to divine intervention, science offers a diffrent description. As Lake Suwa freezes, the ice sheet expands and contracts with temperature fluctuations, creating cracks that fill with water and subsequently freeze. The pressure from these movements results in the formation of the characteristic ice ridges.Similar phenomena occur elsewhere, such as on Lake Mendota in wisconsin, but the extensive historical records of Lake Suwa make it notably significant.

This chronic is very special because people have recorded the same thing in the same way for centuries. this is an example of a cultural heritage that is disappearing and may not be back.

Dagomar degroot, professor of environmental history at Georgetown University

A Community’s Resolve: Preserving a Legacy

Despite the challenges, the community of Suwa remains committed to preserving the tradition of recording the Miwatari. Mayor Yukari Kaneko emphasizes the importance of the tradition in binding the community together, expressing concern that the current changes serve as a warning to re-evaluate our way of life.

Even with the infrequency of the Miwatari’s appearance, Miyasaka is resolute to continue updating the archive, viewing it as a vital historical record. He and his congregation will continue to monitor the lake each winter,driven by a sense of duty to keep this history alive.

While the belief in a literal god crossing the lake has waned in modern times, the symbolic significance of the Miwatari remains. The tradition serves as a powerful reminder of the interconnectedness of nature, culture, and community, and the urgent need to address the challenges posed by climate change.

The Future of Miwatari: A Warning for the World

The chronicles of Lake Suwa, once a testament to the predictable rhythms of nature, now serve as a stark warning about the impact of global warming. The vanishing Miwatari is not just a local concern; it is a microcosm of the environmental changes occurring worldwide. As temperatures rise and ice melts, traditions and ecosystems are threatened, underscoring the need for collective action to protect our planet.