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Courtesy of Fairchild Archive
Archives editor Tonya Blazio-Licorish has spent a particular amount of time throughout her role at PMC Media Archives rifling through historic imagery and stories. At the longstanding company that owns WWDthe visual culture historian tells me there was a light bulb moment that led to the creation of the book black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence & Culture. In her own words, that pivotal moment pushed her to chase the ideal of creating a book that didn’t exist: one that charts the progression of African Americans and their ongoing relationship with fashion. She did just that with the assistance of the iconic publishing house she has worked at for years. Though she is a New Orleans native, she tells me that New York City has been the bulk of where she’s spent her life since the 1990s.
Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence & Culture is an intimate and well-researched look at the symbiotic partnership between stylish figures and the moments they’ve lived through. When reading a copy of it weeks ago, what sticks out is how keen WWD has always been at disseminating news, features, profiles, and more of people closely affiliated with the origins of the fashion industry. The publication would report on isolated moments central to the DNA of the market: labor movements, breaking news, and figures such as josephine Baker were covered by WWD as early as the 1910s and 1920s.
Through the dedication and grit of Blazio-Licorish, the book came to life and showcased ample periods of growth for Black designers and businesses over distinct periods.Take for example WWD and its embrace of designers such as Willi Smith, Stephen Burrows, and Arthur McGee. The book includes a story clip shown in the book titled “The American Spirit of ’73,” the piece centered these figures in a manner that was a precursor for the ongoing traction Black designers would relish in for decades, and even the present. But it also championed them as the faces of the American fashion industry, which was a rarity.
