Niklas Ekstedt: Reviving Ancient Swedish Cooking Techniques

In an era dominated by modern cooking methods, Chef Niklas Ekstedt stands out as a master of traditional culinary craftsmanship. His approach not only honors the rich heritage of Scandinavian cuisine but also pushes the boundaries of how food is cooked and experienced.

Ray of Light in Fresh Oysters: Flambadou

At his UK restaurant, Ekstedt at The Yard, Niklas introduces diners to an age-old Swedish cooking technique known as ‘flambadou.’ This ancient method, traditionally used by the indigenous Sámi people, involves igniting a metal cone filled with dry-aged beef fat over a roaring fire to flavor food. Head chef Luca Mastrantoni brings this spectacle to life by hovering the glowing cone over oysters, infusing them with a unique, rich finish. Paired with beurre blanc, it’s a culinary experience that transports diners back in time.

The Legacy of the Sámi

Today, Sámi communities inhabit parts of Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Russia. Many lead a nomadic lifestyle in Swedish Lapland, often herding reindeer. These indigenous people have a deep connection with the land, which is reflected in their culinary traditions, including dishes cookedSwiftly over open fires or preserved against long winters through smoking, salting, or drying.

Ekstedt’s Journey with Fire

Inspired by his roots in the mountainous region of Åre, Jämtland—a place steeped in history and natural beauty—Niklas Ekstedt has made it his mission to bring these ancient techniques into the modern culinary world. His journey began with a discovery in an old book, leading him to explore the forgotten culinary gadgets and methods of his ancestors.

Wood-Fired Precision

Ekstedt operates one Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm where electricity and gas are entirely absent. The kitchen is powered exclusively by fire, using birch wood and cast iron. This minimalist approach has extended to his London presence at Ekstedt at The Yard. Here, he combines local British ingredients, particularly those from Scotland, with traditional Swedish techniques to create unique dishes like birch-fired scallops and juniper-smoked beef. Even the kitchen is not entirely devoid of modern luxuries; it hosts the occasional light bulb, a concession made for practicality amid the hotel setting. Despite modern conveniences, his commitment to using only fire ensures a purity in his cooking that is both respectful and innovative.

New Nordic Cooking Movement

Around 20 years ago, Ekstedt became a prominent figure in the ‘new Nordic cooking’ revolution, alongside chefs such as Noma’s René Redzepi. This movement celebrated fresh, locally sourced ingredients and sustainable practices, transforming fine dining in Scandinavia and beyond. Prior to this, Nordic cuisine was rarely featured in restaurants; instead, it was a staple of home cooking. Today, chefs across the globe are embracing the New Nordic ethos, cherishing the natural flavors and traditional techniques that define Northern European gastronomy.

From Charlie Trotter’s to Stockholm

Ekstedt’s culinary journey began in Chicago, where he honed his skills at Charlie Trotter’s, one of the most renowned restaurants in the United States. He continued his education in Spain at El Bulli, renowned for its innovative molecular gastronomy. His experiences abroad only fueled his passion for Scandinavian traditions, leading him to return to Sweden at the age of 21 to open his first restaurant. It was a pivotal moment that solidified his status as Sweden’s ‘Jamie Oliver’ during the height of the New Nordic movement.

Unearthing Forgotten Techniques

Fueled by a romanticized notion of chopping wood, Ekstedt delved deeper into the historical and cultural aspects of Swedish cuisine. His quest for culinary authenticity brought him face-to-face with the reality of a society that had long abandoned traditional cooking methods. Swedish food culture, once rich and diverse, had been overshadowed by imported cuisines, leaving behind a legacy that was becoming increasingly distant. Ekstedt set about discovering and reviving these techniques, each one a testament to a bygone era of culinary innovation.

The process was both challenging and rewarding. He spent countless hours in libraries and archives, uncovering the myriad ways in which his ancestors preserved and prepared food. Techniques such as lacto-fermentation and the creation of a “stone age microwave” box for smoking were just a few of the culinary gems he rediscovered. Each experiment brought him closer to his goal of reconnecting with his cultural heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern cooking.

Challenges and Triumphs