Wondrous landscapes, a vibrant nation filled with passion and color, mouth-watering cuisine, rich culture and history, lively cities, affordable prices, and beautiful beaches… who doesn’t love Spain?
Reflecting back on my inaugural vacation funded by my first substantial paycheck – back then, folded into dusty envelopes were crisp paper bills – I recall enjoying festivities by the sun-drenched beaches along Spain’s Costas, and the stunning Canary and Balearic islands.
As the decades pass, the oppressive summer heat has become the norm for travel in Southern Europe’s sweltering coastal areas. This shift prompts travelers to consider vacation destinations with milder conditions.
Costa Verde, or Spain’s ‘Green Coast’, situated in Asturias and neighboring Cantabria, draws eager Spanish and French visitors. They return annually to experience medieval towns and coastal resorts, free from the intense summer heat of Spain’s central and southern coasts.
The old saying “the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain” applies to Asturias, evidenced by its lush green landscape, much like Ireland with its unpredictable weather. Yet, Costa Verde sees frequent sunshine, untainted by the widespread tourism common in the Mediterranean due to its less reliable weather patterns.
Luckily, during my first late autumn visit to Asturias, the weather offered bright blue skies, a comfortable 20s temperature, and a warm Gijon sea, perfect for a dip within the rolling waves.
The region boasts stone-built villages, beautifully preserved medieval towns, scenic coastal resorts, expansive national parks where bears still roam, and countless sandy beaches.
The culture and local delicacies, including renowned cheeses and wines, differ significantly from the mass-touristed parts of Spain, known for mediocre English breakfasts, repetitive fast food, and continuous sports broadcasts.
During my five-day tour, we had lunch in Cudillero, an ideal fishing port with quaint, terraced houses accessible by winding stairs, and local seafood restaurants offering affordable fresh catches.
Oviedo, Asturias’ cultural and commercial hub, pulsates with university life and local energy. Our base for the first night was Hotel Fruela, a boutique hotel nestled on a tranquil traditional street.
The main attraction unfolds along ‘El Bulevar de la Sidra’ or cider boulevard, constantly bustling with activity.
Cider drinking in Asturias transcends mere quenching thirst; it represents a religious ritual. The escanciador, or cider server, pours the cider over a glass in a manner that is part performance, part tradition.
Our server, Salvador, a former karate champion born in Equatorial Guinea, claimed cider never causes hangovers due to its health benefits—an assertion I’m skeptical about.
Oviedo’s cleanliness stands out, winning the national ‘Silver Mop’ award for the cleanest urban areas in Spain. The town boasts an elaborate cathedral and the charming Mercado El Fontan, where visitors can purchase an array of cheeses, olive oils, and budget-friendly wines.
For dinner, we patronized a street filled with Siderias or cider houses, known for the local fabada, essentially a hearty stew featuring beans, chorizo, and black pudding.
But a word of caution – Asturian cuisine is potent. The region takes pride in its cheeses, particularly spicy blue-veined cabrales, aged in caves and transported down from the mountains by donkey.
One of the priciest and most exclusive cheeses in Spain, this blue-veined