A recent analysis has unveiled the world’s oldest graphite kohl, offering insights into the personal care routines of the Iron Age elite. The 2,700-year-old cosmetic provides a glimpse into the beauty practices and resourcefulness of ancient civilizations.

Kohl Sample Analysis

Researchers have successfully analyzed a kohl sample, a conventional eye makeup used in the Middle East, originating from the Iron Age Cemetery Site in the Kani Koter region of Kurdistan Province, Iran. The burial site dates back to the 9th to 7th century BC and is located on the eastern edge of the Asyur Empire, containing artifacts linked to high-status individuals.

The burial site contained weapons, jewelry, horse equipment, and personal care items, including ceramic containers filled with a black, powder-like substance. Scientists employed advanced laboratory techniques to examine the contents and identify the ingredients used in this ancient cosmetic.

The findings, published in the journal Archaeometry, revealed that the kohl consisted of a mixture of minerals, including manganese oxide and natural graphite.

the burial location also contains special artifacts including weapons, jewelry, horse equipment, and personal care equipment.

Long History of Kohl

Kohl, a traditional cosmetic with a long history, was widely used throughout the ancient world, including Egypt, for both aesthetic and therapeutic purposes. Traditional kohl recipes frequently enough relied on lead-based materials to achieve a thick black color. However, the Kani Koter sample stands out due to its lack of lead.

The jet-black color of this ancient kohl is attributed to pyrolusite, a mineral-rich manganese, and shiny, scaly graphite. Graphite, a carbon-based substance commonly found in modern pencils, was a rare ingredient in ancient cosmetics.

Addition of Graphite Provides Visual Attraction

The discovery highlights the local adaptation in cosmetics during the Iron Age. Researchers believe that the combination of minerals was chosen for its appearance and availability. The Zagros Mountains near Kani Koter are rich in manganese and graphite, suggesting that Iron Age artisans utilized these local natural resources to create their cosmetic products.

Graphite added a unique visual appeal to the makeup, providing a metallic luster and layered structure. This allowed the kohl to adhere well, creating a stunning effect for eye makeup.

Traditional Cosmetic Ingredients are Degraded

Scientists concluded that the kohl sample lacked organic compounds, such as vegetable oil or animal fat, likely due to centuries of degradation. The cosmetic containers were found alongside silver jewelry, a bronze mirror, and an ivory applicator, highlighting the importance of appearance among the Iron Age elite.

Both men and women wore eye makeup, indicating that aesthetic practices were prevalent across genders. This symbolic culture may have also served a therapeutic function.

Unlike discoveries from other ancient sites in iran and Mesopotamia, the Kani Koter find demonstrates the progress of regional cosmetic traditions. The use of manganese and graphite in eye makeup recipes suggests the existence of unrecorded variations, possibly influenced by personal taste, available resources, or regional trends.