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It’s a harmful myth that a wash n’ go isn’t for 4C hair. Or worse, the texturist claim that our natural hair doesn’t look “done.” “The wash n’ go is often marketed toward looser curl patterns, which has led many women with tighter textures to believe it simply isn’t for them,” cosmetologist, trichologist and PATTERN brand educator Ebony Bomani tells ESSENCE. But, “that couldn’t be further from the truth.” In fact, coily and tight 4C hair textures look just as good and deserve to soak in all the benefits from this low manipulation style.
While it’s easy to compare our curl patterns to others’, “not all wash n’ gos are the same; everyone has different curls and this method is not meant to look the same on everyone,” says textured hairstylist and Oribe partner Stacey Ciceron. Your natural hair is yours and will always look good on you.
Ahead, these textured hair experts break down all the steps in ESSENCE’s ultimate wash n’ go guide for 4C hair.
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What is a wash n’ go?
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“A wash n’ go is a wet styling technique used on natural hair to enhance a natural curl pattern,” says Ciceron. “This technique is used to bring out the beauty of the curl pattern without any manipulation such as braiding, twisting or applying rollers.” However, contrary to popular belief, the name of the style doesn’t have to be taken literal.
“The common misconception is that you can literally shower, wash, and then go, which is not the case,” she says. According to Bomani, this means using styling products—such as gel, mousse, or custard—to enhance and “capture” your hair’s natural texture in its wet state. “Rather than manipulating the hair into a specific style, you’re working with your natural curl or coil pattern as it dries.”
How do wash n’ go’s benefit 4C hair?
Wearing low-manipulation styles, like a wash n’ go, isn’t just for how it looks. “Curly hair tends to be dry which can lead to fragile hair and breakage,” says Ciceron. However, a wash n’ go on 4C hair helps maximize moisture retention, reduces breakage, and promotes length retention (if longer hair is your goal). Ultimately, however, the point of wearing a wash n’ go is being able to see the beauty in your natural hair texture, which has overwhelming mental and emotional benefits.
We deserve to see beauty in the hair that naturally grows from our scalps. “The idea about what people see as beautiful is a new mission of mine,” she says. “All curl patterns are beautiful and it’s really a matter of accepting and feeling proud of the one that you have.”
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How do you achieve a wash n’ go on 4C hair?
- First, start with a clarifying shampoo such as Oribe The Cleanse Clarifying Shampoo, Keracare 1st Lather Shampoo,orBiologe Scalp Sync Clarifying Shampooto remove any build-up and allow the hair to accept or receive moisture.
- Then, follow-up with a moisturizing shampoo like Keracare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo, Design Essentials Rosemary & Mint Moisturizing Shampooor Mizani Moisture Fusion Shampoo.
- Next, use a treatment mask, like Innersense Hydrating Hair Mask or Design Essentials Honey Crème Moisture Retention Masqueor an intense conditioner to help detangle and hydrate your hair.
- From there, while your hair is still wet, divide it into sections and apply your styling product—hair oil then gel, like the Keracare Clear Protein Styling Gel, PATTERN Curl Gelor Oribe Curl Jelly—from roots to tips, keeping a spray bottle nearby to re-wet any sections as you go (or better, styling in the shower).
- Highly-textured hair requires intentional, even product distribution—applying product without that intention will show in your results. Use the “rake and shake” or “praying hands” method to clump and smooth the hair.
- Once your product is applied throughout, sit under a hooded dryer or use a cool-setting diffuser (to avoid frizz) and allow your hair to dry completely—no touching, no fluffing, no peeking.
- Once fully dry, you can gently separate or use a pick to fluff it, if desired, and you’re done.
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Expert Tips For Achieving A 4C Wash N’ Go
It’s highly recommended to use a lot of water and style your hair while very wet, especially allowing the gel to almost emulsify into your curls. However, Bomani suggests some textures can be better defined when it’s more damp than wet because the styler can grip it more effectively. “I always challenge people to try it that way and see if having less water in their hair works better,” she says, pointing out you may have to play around a little with the steps for your specific hair texture, condition, and porosity.
Ciceron also notes one thing that makes a big difference: your haircut. “Another key tip is having a good haircut with a beautiful silhouette,” she says. “Haircare and haircut are 50 percent of achieving this style.”
What should you avoid with a 4C wash n’ go?
Knowing what to do is only half the routine. “Avoid rushing and not parting the hair into small sections prior to applying your styling product,” warns Ciceron. “Also, do not let the hair air dry, you should use a diffuser or hooded dryer after styling.” Bomani notes it’s also important to avoid products that are too heavy. “Thick butters and heavy creams can weigh 4C hair down, disrupt the curl formation, and lead to undefined results. You want hold and moisture, but with a light enough formula that your coils can still move and clump freely.” she says. “Buildup is the enemy of definition.”