Etto: A Lush Mediterranean Feast in Dublin’s Heart
In a world where New Year’s resolutions often wane by mid-January, one might expect a diet-focused meal to be akin to a tedious chore. However, at Dublin’s coveted Mediterranean restaurant, Etto, preparing to eat less means indulging in an exquisite, well-curated menu that balances indulgence with freshness.
The Setting: A Space Stirring with Anticipation
Located in the heart of the city at 18 Merrion Row, Etto is a small rectangular room with simple aesthetics that make every visit feel like a serene retreat. Despite its modest decor, the restaurant consistently draws crowds. The cozy ambiance, coupled with a menu that requires a minimum of three dishes per person (including a main course), encourages a leisurely dining experience. The restaurant’s ability to accommodate bookings efficiently is noteworthy, with bar seating often an appreciated option when the restaurant reaches full capacity.
Opening Act: The Sherry and Almonds
The evening kicked off with a pair of Hidalgo Fino sherry glasses (€6.50 per 100ml) and a complimentary serving of salted smoked almonds. The sherry served as a palate-awakening beverage, perfect to introduce the layer of flavors that lie ahead. The smoked almonds, described as “the best you will ever taste,” add a wonderful depth to the initial course, setting the stage for an unforgettable culinary journey.
Fried Perfection: Confit Potato and Croquettes
The first dishes brought to the table were a must-order crispy potato (€14) and Etto’s classic hake and chorizo croquettes (€12). The crispy potato, resembling the celebrated cod chip from Mamó Howth, was an indulgence mixed with a tangy delight. It was paired with onion jam, pecorino custard, and thinly sliced wild-boar salami, creating a complex yet harmonious dish. The croquettes, typically described as spicy, tasted even more pungent this visit, featuring a garlicky aïoli that added a sharp kick to the meal.
A Sea of Discovery: The Roast Cod
One of the standout mains was Etto’s roast cod (€36). For many, cod often receives negative reviews, giving it a reputation similar to Donald Trump’s. However, Etto’s version is a revelation, perfectly cooked with each flake firm yet translucent, served atop a seaweed potato crumb and accompanied by a mussel beurre blanc. Additional flavors from bittersweet hispi cabbage, nutty diced celeriac, and caramelized cauliflower gel added nuances to the dish, making it likely the best cod main course any diner has experienced at this venue.
Game of the Season: Roast Fallow Deer
Another highlight was the roast fallow deer (€38), chosen for its seasonality and availability. The pink-filleted dish boasted a sauce rich in Chef steak sauce and elderberries, offering both robustness and earthy notes. Accompanied by spiced deer sausage, a cep purée, and apple and lovage gel, the flavors masked themselves in layers, enhanced by a free sourdough bread used to mop up every bit of the rich, velvety sauce.
A Side Dish to Remember: Hashed Potatoes with Lyonnaise Onions
Complementing the dishes were side orders, such as Etto’s crispy, golden hashed potatoes (€7), topped with slow-cooked sweet ‘Lyonnaise’ onions. Known as one of the best potato dishes in the nation, it was the perfect accompaniment to both the deer and the cod, adding a sweet contrast to the robust flavors.
Wine Selection: A Picture of Perfection
Etto’s wine list, spanning Burgundy to Madeira to Piedmont, continues to be impressive, reflecting the restaurant’s dedication to quality. The evening started with a Hidalgo Fino sherry, followed by a Pieropan Soave (€11) as a pleasant conditioner. The Bodegas Ponce ‘Bobal’ (€17) served well during the main courses, enhancing the flavors of the dishes without overpowering them. Early on, the reviewer expressed a desire for Etto to offer more options by the glass, an idea worth considering for enhancing the dining experience further.
Dessert: A Sweet Yet Complex End
No sumptuous meal is complete without a delightful dessert. Etto’s offerings are relatively budget-friendly at €8.50 each, allowing diners to indulge in two without breaking the bank. Options included a warm dark-chocolate mousse with bergamot accents, matched with coconut ice cream; a satiny malt panna cotta with blood-orange slices; and a nutty roast barley ice cream. Each dessert offered its unique flavors, rounding off the meal on a sweet yet complex note.
The Verdict: An Elevated Experience
Upon reflecting on the evening, it’s evident that Etto has been doing exceptional work for quite some time. The restaurant continues to evolve, offering a refined dining experience that marries the best flavors and textures across the Mediterranean. From the Fino sherry to the desserts, every aspect of the evening was carefully considered, culminating in a meal that can confidently be deemed one of the best dining experiences in Dublin.
Food: 9.5/10
Drinks: 9/10
Service: 9/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Value: 8.5/10
The Bill: An Investment Worthwhile
A dinner with nibbles, starters, mains, sides, and desserts, along with six glasses of wine, set diners back €193.62. While the cost is significant, the quality and taste offer an excellent return on investment. For anyone willing to splurge, Etto is a worthy choice for a special evening out.
Final Thoughts
Etto is a testament to the power of consistency and creativity in culinary arts. Each visit reveals new and delicious dishes, alongside classic favorites, making it a must-visit destination for those who value high-quality dining excellence. Located at 18 Merrion Row, Dublin, D02 A316, visitors can contact Etto at 01-6788872 or visit their website at Etto.ie. Whether you’re indulging in high-end Mediterranean cuisine for a special occasion or simply looking for an unforgettable dining experience, Etto offers a feast that is both luxurious and memorable.
- Monday – Wednesday: 5-9:30pm
- Thursday: 12:30-9:30pm
- Friday-Saturday: 12-9:30pm
Join the Conversation
We’d love to hear your thoughts on Etto! Have you visited the restaurant? What was your favorite dish? Leave your comments below and share your dining experiences with the Archynetys community. Also, don’t forget to subscribe for more restaurant reviews and food industry insights. Happy dining!